Gravel build - Get the hack saw !!!

Next step, tubes ! headtube and seat tube.

Now that we have axles and wheels, we can turn out attention to *tubes.

NO, I DO NOT MEAN Mother-F&(%D inner tubes !!! Those are extinct now. For Gravel tubeless is 100% the way to go :)

I mean seat tube and steerer / head tube.

(Ok, for the keen eye the headset and bottom bracket bearing appeared magically)
Just a side note, a the headset bearings are integrated, they just pop in place and done.
Just grease and slide them in.

Bottom bracket is BSA, so, just screw it on, and put the Hollowtech II chainset in.

Back to tubes.

Seat tube is too long, so CUT it !
It is always better to cut it, unless you plan to grow up several centimeters (or inches whichever you prefer).

If the seat-tube is too long it can touch the bottle holder screws and creak creak creak.
Make sure to always respect the minimum insertion marks, leave space for changes in saddle/pedals/etc, measure twice and cut once.

bye bye 28grams

Now, headtube...

Install bearings, and stem in appropriate height.

Get elastomers for suspension stem in place... (might need to revisit this later)

Now the important part, on headset measure THRICE and cut ONCE.

Here, you cannot leave margin for error, as it needs to be flush.

On carbon steerer tubes, the stem needs to clamp 100% on the tube, do not leave a gap for preset as in aluminium tubes. (You just place a 5mm spacer on top for that).

You also cannot leave too much space above the stem, otherwise the carbon bung will not be long enough to be inside the complete stem clamping area to reinforce it.

So, measure measure measure, tape it (so carbon does not fray while cutting) and mark it.

Off you go, 55 grams of *tubes !

Re-install and PERFECT ! (Could've cleaned up the grease smears for the picture, but this way it is more real, more reality, more RAW).

Now you can insert the carbon bung, tighten it, compress the bearings, tighten stem as usual.

End result (for the day).

Much nicer without the protrusions, hey ?

Also, placed the handlebars ( FSA energy wing pro compact) for a quick weigh-in.

WOW that's light !
Ok, some 800 grams of parts are missing (sti levers, chain,bar tape) but this is with ALLOY wheels, 38mm tires and MTB pedals !

If I put road carbon wheels (-500grams) in there with road tires (-100grams per tire), it should be able to get this weight for the complete build.
Also, for road, I should not need the 11-34 cassette,if you want to save further weight.

In any case, weight is not a priority here, as everything is for max confort and versatility.
The frameset itself has added weight in order to be more durable.
BSA bottom bracket instead of press-fit,rack mounts,all mounting bolts reinforced.

I am just providing weight data as it is easy and simple to measure and could provide a comparison point, on how little is the weight penalty for the added comfort/versatility and durability of the bike.

Gravel build - Axles

Let's get started with the fun stuff !!!

First, get some measurements on stuff to replace 😆

The included axles kind of negate the benefits of thru-axles. They have a cam shaft like the quick-release ones, and function in a similar way, so thread thread, claaaaaaamm too tight, un-thread, clamp... Too loose, thread a bit more, clamp.

The benefit of through axles (beside of weight and stiffness) is of consistency. Turn to a desired torque, DONE. Always the same alignement everytime.

So, front is 125mm long with 1.5mm thread pitch.
Rear is 168mm long, 17mm thread, with 1.5mm pitch.

It also has a porky 77 grams.



Here comes the replacement :

Brand-X Bolt Thru Axle.
E-Thru    12x142mm   170mm       17mm                M12x1.5           42g
E-Thru    12x100mm   125mm       17mm                M12x1.5           31g
They look nicer, flusher, +aero, simpler, safer, easier and BOOMM 35+40g = 75 grams saved.

Axles use a standard 6mm allen head, so any multi-tool can be used to install/remove wheels on the road.

As an option you can get the switch lever.

You can ride with it (it locks with a spring) or store it in a bag.

Only need one as it works for front and rear.
Even with the lever, they are turn-turn-turn done. No clamping needed.

Staying on the axles topic, the wheelset for this build is a Vision Team 30 disc.

The wheelset is prepared for 9mm axles (or QR compatible) or 15x100/12x100 front via changing hub caps.

Rear can take 10x135 (QR compatible) or 12x135 or 12x142 by changing end caps.(included).

So, front was pop-out, pop-in, all good.

Rear wheel needed two 17mm spanners in order to remove the disc-side endcap. As you need to hold the axle and turn.

I have in my tool box 15mm (pedal) spanner, 16mm, 19mm, 20 and 21mm spanners.

DAWM !!!

So, thank you Wiggle to set me up with this on next-day delivery !! ( I asked for another individual 17mm not pictured).

Now, all is ready on the axle side !

Gravel build

Full of optimism, I decided it was a good time to get started on a new build.

Some time ago I built a winter/commuter/gravel/all-purpose cheap build with some parts I had lying around. Purpose of that was to test the concept of fat-ish tires on road-like frames.
It was AWESOME, truly best of both worlds, even with the budget / old components.

This time, the idea is to upgrade the concept to hopefully get it even better and even more do-it-all.

The frame choice for this is a Holdsworth Mystique ( or Pardus Uragano ) frameset.

Reasons behind this choice :

1- Tyre Clearance, through axles, flat mount disc brakes, BSA bottom bracket.

Those are the must have specs for this (or any) gravel build.

Tyre clearance is good for 700c x 45mm or 650b x 53mm (2.1" Aspens come to mind).
12x100 front 12x142 back axles, keeps all nice and tight.
You can argue with flat mounts, but they are the trend, so more models available here without having to mix-and-match. ( Shimano GRX or other newer Shimano drop handlebars groupsets are all flat-mount only). Should keep the build more future proof.
BSA bottom bracket, because, screw :D

2 - Geometry, geometry geometry.

Based on the past experiments (and some *epic* rides), I pretty much had a solid idea on the position I prefer, so, head over to this fabulous website :
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/planet-x-london-road-2015-s,holdsworth-mystique-carbon-gravel-2018-54,trek-domane-sl-2020-54-cm/

Where you can add all the bikes and sizes you want, and compare the stack and reach.
(You can also search by stack and reach).

This way, you can easily compare sizes, geometry charts, and see what bike and what size fits you best.

I was using the London Road frameset in "S" size.
The reach was perfect for me, so it had to be a close number on that.
On the stack, I was using around 50mm of spacers to get the handlebars to the height I wanted, so using a frame with a higher stack, would mean less spacers.

Hence, the Mystique frameset, where I could ride it *SLAMMED* !

3 - Quality vs Price. 

The frameset is VERY VERY REASONABLY priced, and I got 20% discount, so, perfect.

Quality. So far the quality of the frame has been a complete WOW. I traced it back to the "Shandong Taishan Ruibao Composite Material Co. Ltd" factory. (Not difficult to do, it had a sticker with the Quality control process).

The same factory is said to produce some very high-end framesets for "known" brands such as BMC, Scott, Factor, Argon-18,amongs others.

That is all very nice on paper, but looking at the frame, it looks flawless so far !
Very good details, finishing and tolerances. Everything lines up, bearings have been a breeze to install, and everything spins up nicely and evenly.

Choices : 

I will try to use as much stuff as I already have, at least to wear them out completely before upgrading. ( Some issues already presented themselves, details to follow).

One exception to this is BAR TAPE, you always need NEW BAR TAPE, even on old bikes.

I have boxes of bar tape laying around,but I wanted ORANGE bar tape on this.

(It is a necessity).

Choice was Fizik Tempo Microtex bondCUSH.

The colour matches perfectly and the tape seems cushy and grippy.

Updates to follow.

Tire choice

I spent some time choosing the tires for the next upcoming challenges, an MTB Marathon (XCM) and a long bikepacking weekend on dirt paths.

Currently I was using a Schwalbe Hans Dampf TS/Nobby Nic PS 2.25" combo, but the idea that it was too much tire for this kept buzzing my mind.

I really like the Schwalbe Pace Star compound, it is really fast, and grips well "most" of the time...
But when it let's go ... it lets go violently, and if it is on the front, that will be ground time.
On anything like wet roots, wet slick rocks it slips like ice.

Schwalbe Trail Star sticks to the ground good enough, but almost TOO sticky, it drags a bit too much for me. In the front it is good, as the load is not so high, so it does not contribute too much for rolling resistance, and you have the added grip...

Now, with the ADDIX compounds, this problem should be solved, as the new "SPEEDGRIP" compound rolls as good as the Pace Star, but with some added grip so you do not die in the wet.
If you have a death wish, the ADDIX SPEED compound is supposed to be faster than PACE STAR, and you have the "SOFT" and "ULTRA SOFT" versions, which should relate to Trail Star.

So ... I could just replace the front tire with a "SPEEDGRIP" version and the rubber issue would be solved.

Still ... Rubber is just part of the equation, as both Hans Damps and Nobby Nic are, well ... knobby !

The impact of the rubber compound can be seen on rolling resistance tests on smooth drums. As for the tread and knobbyness, I'm not so sure, as it is not easy to replicate the drag of the knobs perforating dirt.

 As alternative to Schwalbe's options, I considered MAXXIS. Many many people run and swear by them.
One particular good thing on MAXXIS is that they have millions of options regarding tires.

For example, I like wide tires, as wider is better, rolls faster, more confort, more grip, more everything.
I also like XC/XCM type treads in order to roll faster, and as I do not do very technical stuff ( as I am technically "challenged").

If I look at Schwalbes options, in 2.35" wide, I only have options in the Trail/All Mountain variety.
There is no Racing Ralph or Rocket Ron in that width.

Maxxis has you covered, the Ikon is available from 1.9" up to 2.6" !!!

Regarding rubber, Maxxis' "MAXXSPEED" compound is somewhat in the middle of the old PACESTAR / TRAILSTAR, so, to me it is kind of a Goldilocks option.
For the rear tire, maybe a faster rubber would be good, but let's not mix brands for now.

Based on reports, advice, competition guys (Brazil Ride, Cape Epic), etc, the alternative combo is :

MAXXIS ARDENT RACE / IKON !!!

Both available in 2.35, both suited to XCM, light weight, low tread, sidewall protection.
The Ardent Race should be grippier and have more braking/corner control, so it will go in the front.
the Ikon is a classic rear tire, so I am expecting it to be good and fast.

Now, let's break out the science ! Is the Maxxis combo better than the current Schwalbe one ?

On weight, they are almost the same, so no difference there.

Regarding rolling resistance :
Front

Rear

Source : https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com

Looking at this, I can expect to gain around ... 10 Watts in the front at my favorite pressure, and loose about 5 Watts in the rear, which would still be a 5 Watt improvement.

Still debatable as the load on the front is lower, so not so important for rolling resistance, so ... maybe not much to gain.

One thing to note, is that the results are for MAXXIS 2.2" version, so the 2.35" should have better results as WIDER IS BETTER !
( One of the many tests showing this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGv329v8-vI )
( Wider is better comparison on road tires : https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/conti-gp4000s-ii-23-25-28 )

In summary, I made the move to MAXXIS, worst case I have feedback on how they ride.
I am not expecting real improvements on asphalt based on the rolling resistance tests, but I am expecting better overall performance, as the compound is more versatile, it should do better in a variety of environments, and I do expect them to roll better in hardpack dirt, as the center knobs are much lower.
Also, better comfort due to the slightly wider size.

Last but not least, the bright yellow sidewall logo looks good on my bike !

Still, I am not so keen on loosing the agro looking tires...
Let's see how they hold up !

MTB Bike build

Bike build day !!!
Here are some details on a custom build with a Cube Stereo 140 frame.

I did not take pictures of all the steps, and some of the pictures are crap, but ... hey, I was too excited with the build to remember to photograph all the steps !

So, there are some "gaps" in the process, but any question or step you want to know about, just let me know in the comments section, and I can add more details on that.


The first component to arrive was the fork, a 2017 RockShox Reba 150mm.

First step on the build, to install the crown-race, to do this, either you have a specific crown-race setter tool or you use a PVC pipe with the same diameter as the fork bottom.

Perfect fit of the pipe !

Turn it upside down and bang it on the floor.

Presto ! .

The frame arrived a couple of days later !!

 Let's start with inspecting the bottom bracket and headset holes, make sure everything is nicely faced and aligned, to get started inserting bearings.

Brake mounts also look nice !!!
One particular detail of the frame, is that the brake mount is already set-up for 180mm rotors, so no need to use adapters !

Setup-up a wheel (tubeless of course) and install a shock, just to make sure everything fits !

Now let's start with the tricky stuff !! Installing the headset completely from scratch.
It was my first time doing this, so I fill myself with confidence and got started.

The best way to do this, is (again) to use a specific tool that I also do not have.
I used a "hack" tool composed of a long bolt and washers to press the headset cups in place.

For the build I chose to use a Cane Creek 40 headset, simply because I have good experience with Cane Creek products and trust them to work.

 Pressing !!! First goes in the bottom cup. Make sure the washers are nice and flush on the top.

 Use anti-seize on the cup.

 Turn turn turn turn, and in it goes !!!
Taking care and making sure it is going in straight along the way, and adjusting the bolt position here and there until the cup is flush with the frame.

Perfects !!! Cane Creek Geko looking good :) 

Now, the same thing for the top cup.

Everything in place, pfffiiiiiiiuuuu what a relief !

Second step, the bottom bracket bearings !!
The frame uses a PF90 bottom bracket, so more cups to press.

For this, I chose the KCNC bottom bracket, so that it has nice aluminium cups that are pressed into the frame, with their o-ring design, so that it goes in nicely and DO NOT CREAK.

Additionally, for maintenance the cups stay in the frame, the bearings can be simply replaced, without the need to hammer out cups, and insert new ones.

More anti-seize, same tool as for the headset, turn turn turn.

Perfect !

Now that we have cups and bearings, we can get started on installing the crankset and fork !
Crankset is a Hollowtech II design, so it just goes in and done !!

For this build I am using an old triple Shimano Deore crankset with a single oval ring (34T) installed in the middle position.

For the fork, we need to insert everything, see what height you want to run, check with stem and spacers, measure twice and cut once !

After the fork tube is cut, insert the starnut.

and it can be installed in place, tighten up stem, handlebars.

It starts to look like a bike !!!

The following steps are to cut cable housing to length, route cables through the frame (it came with guides installed, so it was easy), install rear mech, cassette, brake rotors, brakes.

This is the easy part, everything almost simply bolts into place.

Let's get the chain ready. I chose to use a KMC gold chain (bling !!!) for this.
I tried KMC chains on the road bike a while back, and simply became a fan of them.

First step is to clean all the factory grease using a chain degreaser (Morgan Blue).
Install and lube with wax (Squirt Lube), so this is effectively the first and last time degreaser is needed, as it always stays clean ! (Or simply cleans with water).

Here it is with the chain in place !
I also replaced the rear shock with a RockShox Monarch DebonAir (to match the fork) and used Enduro needle bearing instead of the tradicional bushings !!!

What a difference ! (and cheaper too)

The keen eye among you will also notice that in the last picture, there is a Reverb dropper post installed.
I saved it for last, as it is easier to clamp the bike on the stand with a fixed post for most of the build.

Regarding the Reverb, installation is pretty simple.

Pump to 250 psi

Install new hose and fittings.

and, as this is a new build, I upgraded my Reverb to the new 1x remote !! It is amazing !

Bleed the thing (push - pull - push - pull - details here and here)

And up it goes !

As we are talking about bleeds, I used Jagwire Hi-Flow hoses for the brakes, they provide nice feeling on the lever, and come in a hole lot of colors, so I can use neon to match the frame paint job.

Also, the banjo bolt is GOLD !! ( more bike BLING ! )

Here she is !!!
Some small details missing, but enough to ride !

So far, I love the bike !!
The slacker geometry (from what I was using) and 27.5 wheels make everything look "easier" and little by little, I gain confidence and try some new trails and slightly larger obstacles !!!

More details and ride reports will follow shortly !

As I have a big challenge coming up !