Gravel build - Get the hack saw !!!

Next step, tubes ! headtube and seat tube.

Now that we have axles and wheels, we can turn out attention to *tubes.

NO, I DO NOT MEAN Mother-F&(%D inner tubes !!! Those are extinct now. For Gravel tubeless is 100% the way to go :)

I mean seat tube and steerer / head tube.

(Ok, for the keen eye the headset and bottom bracket bearing appeared magically)
Just a side note, a the headset bearings are integrated, they just pop in place and done.
Just grease and slide them in.

Bottom bracket is BSA, so, just screw it on, and put the Hollowtech II chainset in.

Back to tubes.

Seat tube is too long, so CUT it !
It is always better to cut it, unless you plan to grow up several centimeters (or inches whichever you prefer).

If the seat-tube is too long it can touch the bottle holder screws and creak creak creak.
Make sure to always respect the minimum insertion marks, leave space for changes in saddle/pedals/etc, measure twice and cut once.

bye bye 28grams

Now, headtube...

Install bearings, and stem in appropriate height.

Get elastomers for suspension stem in place... (might need to revisit this later)

Now the important part, on headset measure THRICE and cut ONCE.

Here, you cannot leave margin for error, as it needs to be flush.

On carbon steerer tubes, the stem needs to clamp 100% on the tube, do not leave a gap for preset as in aluminium tubes. (You just place a 5mm spacer on top for that).

You also cannot leave too much space above the stem, otherwise the carbon bung will not be long enough to be inside the complete stem clamping area to reinforce it.

So, measure measure measure, tape it (so carbon does not fray while cutting) and mark it.

Off you go, 55 grams of *tubes !

Re-install and PERFECT ! (Could've cleaned up the grease smears for the picture, but this way it is more real, more reality, more RAW).

Now you can insert the carbon bung, tighten it, compress the bearings, tighten stem as usual.

End result (for the day).

Much nicer without the protrusions, hey ?

Also, placed the handlebars ( FSA energy wing pro compact) for a quick weigh-in.

WOW that's light !
Ok, some 800 grams of parts are missing (sti levers, chain,bar tape) but this is with ALLOY wheels, 38mm tires and MTB pedals !

If I put road carbon wheels (-500grams) in there with road tires (-100grams per tire), it should be able to get this weight for the complete build.
Also, for road, I should not need the 11-34 cassette,if you want to save further weight.

In any case, weight is not a priority here, as everything is for max confort and versatility.
The frameset itself has added weight in order to be more durable.
BSA bottom bracket instead of press-fit,rack mounts,all mounting bolts reinforced.

I am just providing weight data as it is easy and simple to measure and could provide a comparison point, on how little is the weight penalty for the added comfort/versatility and durability of the bike.