Gravel build - Put the brakes on

Original though for this was to re-use existing post-mount brakes on this build.

Even though the frame and fork have flat mounts, for now the plan was to use components I already had, as there are adapters available for this.

That would mean less pleasant aesthetics but cheaper cost (also the pads are usually much cheaper for postmount stuff).

So, aesthetics wise, with the adapters the solution is simply FUGLY.

As an example pic stolen from here, we can see from left to right:
Postmount caliper on postmount.
Flatmount caliper on flatmount.

Postmount caliper on flatmount fork (see, fugly).

So, doing this on the fork was ok as basically there is nothing behind the fork.
Tried the frame and ... no way in hell it is going to fit.
Even just the adapter alone does not fit (hits the seatstay), so no way in hell.
I need to get new flatmount brakes.

(I could just get one for the rear and use the adapter in front ... but ...  fugly ! )

Choice was to the trusted (and currently on sale) TRP Spyre SLC (carbon wooooo).

There are not much options on mechanical flatmount disc brakes, and these work "OK".
Dual-sided (both pads move, unlike most mechanical disc brakes), use easy to find pads.

What I mean by "OK" is that it is not as good as good hydraulics, but is more than enough for the purpose when paired with compression-less cable housing, good rotors and pads.

Why mechanical ?
Simply because they are much cheaper. I can re-use existing STI levers.
If I drop the bike and break a lever or want to upgrade transmission, much cheaper to buy mechanical.
It is simpler to maintain if I am backpacking somewhere remote, It is simpler to hack something out to fix a cable, rather than look for a hose / bleed kit / hydraulic fluid in the middle of Morocco with a goat on my back.

Getting back to the build.

Got the brakes, installed them in 160mm configuration and done !!

Oh, just one thing, replace the TRP pads ;) You'll thank me later.
(I will save them for the road bike, as I also use Spyres there and road is not so demanding on brakes).

SwissStop are a premium option, Shimano BS01 will also work fine for a budget pad.
(I heard wonders on TruckerCO pads (yes, strange name) but not been able to source them.)

One other thing, the length of the bolt for the rear brake depends on the frame stay width.
Learned it the hard way.

Measure it

29mm in this case, add 6 to 10mm ( so, 35 to 39mm will do ), look for bolts.

Available lengths are 27mm, 32mm, 37mm and 42mm.

Doing the math, in this case 32 is short(less than 35), 42 is long (more than 39), 37mm is just right !! Goldilocks.

ONE IMPORTANT NOTE :
If you order Shimano bolts, the size they mention is chainstay width. You order the 30mm version, to fit a 30mm chainstay, so you get a 37mm long bolt.

If you order TRP or SRAM bolts, you get what you order. 32mm gives you a 32mm long bolt.
(I also learned that the hard way).

Back to the build topic...

Get all the parts, calipers, fixing bolts and plates.

Change pads

Fix to bike, kind of centered.
We finish centering them when the bike is on the stand to install gear cables.

Even the flatmount caliper fits snug !! Really no way to get a fugly adapter there.

Another step closer to a dream bike.

Gravel build - Get the hack saw !!!

Next step, tubes ! headtube and seat tube.

Now that we have axles and wheels, we can turn out attention to *tubes.

NO, I DO NOT MEAN Mother-F&(%D inner tubes !!! Those are extinct now. For Gravel tubeless is 100% the way to go :)

I mean seat tube and steerer / head tube.

(Ok, for the keen eye the headset and bottom bracket bearing appeared magically)
Just a side note, a the headset bearings are integrated, they just pop in place and done.
Just grease and slide them in.

Bottom bracket is BSA, so, just screw it on, and put the Hollowtech II chainset in.

Back to tubes.

Seat tube is too long, so CUT it !
It is always better to cut it, unless you plan to grow up several centimeters (or inches whichever you prefer).

If the seat-tube is too long it can touch the bottle holder screws and creak creak creak.
Make sure to always respect the minimum insertion marks, leave space for changes in saddle/pedals/etc, measure twice and cut once.

bye bye 28grams

Now, headtube...

Install bearings, and stem in appropriate height.

Get elastomers for suspension stem in place... (might need to revisit this later)

Now the important part, on headset measure THRICE and cut ONCE.

Here, you cannot leave margin for error, as it needs to be flush.

On carbon steerer tubes, the stem needs to clamp 100% on the tube, do not leave a gap for preset as in aluminium tubes. (You just place a 5mm spacer on top for that).

You also cannot leave too much space above the stem, otherwise the carbon bung will not be long enough to be inside the complete stem clamping area to reinforce it.

So, measure measure measure, tape it (so carbon does not fray while cutting) and mark it.

Off you go, 55 grams of *tubes !

Re-install and PERFECT ! (Could've cleaned up the grease smears for the picture, but this way it is more real, more reality, more RAW).

Now you can insert the carbon bung, tighten it, compress the bearings, tighten stem as usual.

End result (for the day).

Much nicer without the protrusions, hey ?

Also, placed the handlebars ( FSA energy wing pro compact) for a quick weigh-in.

WOW that's light !
Ok, some 800 grams of parts are missing (sti levers, chain,bar tape) but this is with ALLOY wheels, 38mm tires and MTB pedals !

If I put road carbon wheels (-500grams) in there with road tires (-100grams per tire), it should be able to get this weight for the complete build.
Also, for road, I should not need the 11-34 cassette,if you want to save further weight.

In any case, weight is not a priority here, as everything is for max confort and versatility.
The frameset itself has added weight in order to be more durable.
BSA bottom bracket instead of press-fit,rack mounts,all mounting bolts reinforced.

I am just providing weight data as it is easy and simple to measure and could provide a comparison point, on how little is the weight penalty for the added comfort/versatility and durability of the bike.

Gravel build - Axles

Let's get started with the fun stuff !!!

First, get some measurements on stuff to replace 😆

The included axles kind of negate the benefits of thru-axles. They have a cam shaft like the quick-release ones, and function in a similar way, so thread thread, claaaaaaamm too tight, un-thread, clamp... Too loose, thread a bit more, clamp.

The benefit of through axles (beside of weight and stiffness) is of consistency. Turn to a desired torque, DONE. Always the same alignement everytime.

So, front is 125mm long with 1.5mm thread pitch.
Rear is 168mm long, 17mm thread, with 1.5mm pitch.

It also has a porky 77 grams.



Here comes the replacement :

Brand-X Bolt Thru Axle.
E-Thru    12x142mm   170mm       17mm                M12x1.5           42g
E-Thru    12x100mm   125mm       17mm                M12x1.5           31g
They look nicer, flusher, +aero, simpler, safer, easier and BOOMM 35+40g = 75 grams saved.

Axles use a standard 6mm allen head, so any multi-tool can be used to install/remove wheels on the road.

As an option you can get the switch lever.

You can ride with it (it locks with a spring) or store it in a bag.

Only need one as it works for front and rear.
Even with the lever, they are turn-turn-turn done. No clamping needed.

Staying on the axles topic, the wheelset for this build is a Vision Team 30 disc.

The wheelset is prepared for 9mm axles (or QR compatible) or 15x100/12x100 front via changing hub caps.

Rear can take 10x135 (QR compatible) or 12x135 or 12x142 by changing end caps.(included).

So, front was pop-out, pop-in, all good.

Rear wheel needed two 17mm spanners in order to remove the disc-side endcap. As you need to hold the axle and turn.

I have in my tool box 15mm (pedal) spanner, 16mm, 19mm, 20 and 21mm spanners.

DAWM !!!

So, thank you Wiggle to set me up with this on next-day delivery !! ( I asked for another individual 17mm not pictured).

Now, all is ready on the axle side !

Gravel build

Full of optimism, I decided it was a good time to get started on a new build.

Some time ago I built a winter/commuter/gravel/all-purpose cheap build with some parts I had lying around. Purpose of that was to test the concept of fat-ish tires on road-like frames.
It was AWESOME, truly best of both worlds, even with the budget / old components.

This time, the idea is to upgrade the concept to hopefully get it even better and even more do-it-all.

The frame choice for this is a Holdsworth Mystique ( or Pardus Uragano ) frameset.

Reasons behind this choice :

1- Tyre Clearance, through axles, flat mount disc brakes, BSA bottom bracket.

Those are the must have specs for this (or any) gravel build.

Tyre clearance is good for 700c x 45mm or 650b x 53mm (2.1" Aspens come to mind).
12x100 front 12x142 back axles, keeps all nice and tight.
You can argue with flat mounts, but they are the trend, so more models available here without having to mix-and-match. ( Shimano GRX or other newer Shimano drop handlebars groupsets are all flat-mount only). Should keep the build more future proof.
BSA bottom bracket, because, screw :D

2 - Geometry, geometry geometry.

Based on the past experiments (and some *epic* rides), I pretty much had a solid idea on the position I prefer, so, head over to this fabulous website :
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/planet-x-london-road-2015-s,holdsworth-mystique-carbon-gravel-2018-54,trek-domane-sl-2020-54-cm/

Where you can add all the bikes and sizes you want, and compare the stack and reach.
(You can also search by stack and reach).

This way, you can easily compare sizes, geometry charts, and see what bike and what size fits you best.

I was using the London Road frameset in "S" size.
The reach was perfect for me, so it had to be a close number on that.
On the stack, I was using around 50mm of spacers to get the handlebars to the height I wanted, so using a frame with a higher stack, would mean less spacers.

Hence, the Mystique frameset, where I could ride it *SLAMMED* !

3 - Quality vs Price. 

The frameset is VERY VERY REASONABLY priced, and I got 20% discount, so, perfect.

Quality. So far the quality of the frame has been a complete WOW. I traced it back to the "Shandong Taishan Ruibao Composite Material Co. Ltd" factory. (Not difficult to do, it had a sticker with the Quality control process).

The same factory is said to produce some very high-end framesets for "known" brands such as BMC, Scott, Factor, Argon-18,amongs others.

That is all very nice on paper, but looking at the frame, it looks flawless so far !
Very good details, finishing and tolerances. Everything lines up, bearings have been a breeze to install, and everything spins up nicely and evenly.

Choices : 

I will try to use as much stuff as I already have, at least to wear them out completely before upgrading. ( Some issues already presented themselves, details to follow).

One exception to this is BAR TAPE, you always need NEW BAR TAPE, even on old bikes.

I have boxes of bar tape laying around,but I wanted ORANGE bar tape on this.

(It is a necessity).

Choice was Fizik Tempo Microtex bondCUSH.

The colour matches perfectly and the tape seems cushy and grippy.

Updates to follow.